Living Like a Local

This morning we were greeted with glorious sunshine. The next two days would be spent driving around the Japanese alps and soaking up traditional Japanese life in this fantastic weather. But before we picked up our car we quickly squeezed in a visit to Kanazawa’s Castle Park as we missed out yesterday due to the rain. It turned out to be a good thing going at 7:30am as we were one of the few tourists there.

We had hired a Toyota for the next 2 days. The car hire is a bit different in Japan. Rather than hire through a car rental company which stocks a range of brands, the norm is to instead hire through the “brand” of car ie Toyota, Nissan etc.

We got our car very easily and, as usual, opted for no additional insurance. Risk takers! The service was impeccable. The person who served us even walked us to the parking lot and to another person who would help set up the car ie GPS and the baby seat.

Before long we were off and on our way to Shirakawa-go. Declared a world heritage site, Shirakawa-go is famous for their traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses, some of which are more than 250 years old. The thatched roofs are made without nails and are designed to withstand time and snow. The village was gorgeous and still quaint despite the tourists.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

After the village we drove up to a viewpoint where you can see the entire village. It was like a fairytale and had a European feel to it.

Whilst we were at the viewpoint, two young women came up to Gracie and I and asked to take her photo as they thought she was adorable. Awwww….

Next stop was Takayama, another small town famous for its old town with teahouses. It was sooooo cute and had the cutest little shops where we bought lots of stuff (mainly for Gracie)!

Last stop was our ryokan located about an hour from Takayama and situated bang in the middle of the Japanese alps. So you can expect there were lots of curvy tight roads to get to our guesthouse as well as an unexpected waterfall.

So a little about our ryokan. The setting was something that will stay with me forever. It was perched in the lush green mountains with water cascading in front of it. The ryokan also had a number of onsen to soak in the natural hot springs.

The next 2 nights were all about enjoying the setting and having a true Japanese experience. We were sleeping on the ground on hard mattresses (this was great, especially for Gracie with her crabbing – coz she crawls like a crab).

We had a shared toilet (this was ok – they had seperate men’s and women’s and were super private). And we had a shared bath (this was interesting). The bath was super traditional. Men and women had their own “bathrooms”. When you entered you were in a room where you strip down. Then you enter the bath area which is totally open and use one of the 4 showers on the wall, after which you can soak in the onsen with the other ladies or men. First time I used it I was super lucky as I was alone. The next 2 times I was showering nude with the other ladies. Whilst I was initially out of my comfort zone, by my last shower I was at ease and showering like a local.

Next post I’ll share more on the ryokan and our alp adventures.

Kanazawa – When It Rains, It Pours

Goodbye Tokyo. Today we left the big smoke for Kanazawa. Kanazawa is about 2 hours west of Tokyo and has a population of 500,000. Much smaller than the 40 million which populate Tokyo. However, during WWII Kanazawa was the second largest city after Kyoto and was subject to bombings. Today it’s a peaceful town with lots of cultural sites and one of the best landscaped gardens in all of Japan.

As usual, our journey would take place via the Shinkansen (ie bullet train). Gracie was amazing on the trip. The first hour she ate and played. Second hour she slept. Sometimes it is better to expect the worst.

Arriving in Kanazawa we were hit with the heat and humidity. Not a good combo when lugging 2 suitcases, a stroller, backpack, handbag and baby along the streets to your hotel, which was about 15 minute walk from the station. Fortunately, when we arrived at our hotel, our room was ready so we could check in despite it only being 12 noon.

As we only have 1.5 days in Kanazawa, after quickly freshening up, we hit the pavement. We headed to Omicho markets to check out the local produce. Seafood is a specialty in this area as there were fresh fish, dozens and dozens of crabs and the most monster sized oysters I’ve even seen!

All the seafood made us hungry so we grabbed some lunch at a restaurant in the market. I had my favourite Japanese dish of seared salmon on rice with salmon roe. Soooooo delicious and fresh. Glenn’s tempura wasn’t bad either!

In the afternoon we walked to the Higashi Chaya District. During the Edo Period of the 1600’s to 1800’s this area was filled with little tea houses where geishas would perform. The old buildings have been preserved and make for a lovely walk.

Our second day in Kanazawa greeted us with rain. Not one to be held back by the weather, we got ready to go out. Actually the “PG” (Pre-Gracie) Erika and Glenn probably would have slept in, lounged around etc. But getting caught in some rain is more appealing than being locked in a hotel room for a whole day with a 10 month old.

Off we went on local bus to the Nagamachi Samurai District. This area was where samurai and their families lived. It’s got narrow streets with cute little houses.

The highlight in this area is Nomura-Le, a restored samurai house. The house is so gorgeous and has the most zen garden. What I loved most was a bunch of middle aged Japanese business coming to visit in suits as we were leaving and them all going “ohh” and “ahh” like teenagers over the house.

Lunch was at the Museum of Contemporary Art. We didnt actual go visit the exhibition. We just enjoyed the free art and their amazing buffet lunch!! That’s the best way to visit most museums for Glenn and I.

After lunch we ventured to Kenrokuen one of Japan’s best landscape gardens. The name “Kenrokuen” means “Garden of the Six Sublimities”, referring to spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views, which according to Chinese landscape theory are the six essential attributes that make up a perfect garden. Well. The garden was stunning. What we got to see of it because about 5 minutes after buying our ticket it started to pour. Like bad. So bad we had to get a taxi back to the hotel.

That was us done for the day! Well almost. Anyone who says you can’t go to a bar with a baby is wrong. We managed to have a wine and whisky with Gracie at a jazz bar before she bacame too bored/hungry.

Asakusa Antics

Today’s adventures took us to Asakusa, an area that retains some traditional Japanese charm (as much as it possibly can with the thousands of tourists that visit daily).

We started our day with breakfast at a cafe called Muji, about 10 minute walk from our hotel. We were lucky to enjoy our breakfast in peace while Gracie napped but we woke her at the end so we could feed her. She absolutely loved the cafe and it’s awesome high chairs “breakfast rice” and brioche buns. The poor kid is on a carb diet at the moment.

We then headed to the station to catch a train to Ueno and then do a 30 minute walk to Asakusa. A quick explanation of the trains. There are several trains that run through Tokyo. We had JR passes which effectively gives us unlimited travel on all the bullet trains, airport trains and the local “JR” lines. The Asakusa line is not covered by our JR passes and we were determined not to have to pay for other train lines unless critical. Well that happened today. For a country which prides itself on efficiency and punctuality the JR lines were down. Yep halted to an incredible stop. This all happened as we sat on a train that had already gone 2 stops. So we had no option but to get off and pretty much walk back to where we got on originally and pay for a different train. Surprisingly the Japanese stayed calm even though there was no end in sight for the significant delays. In Australia people would be cursing and have their angry faces on almost immediately.

Upside to all this was that we finally found nappies and other baby supplies on our way to the station. Baby supplies are not easy to come by and the main place to buy them in Tokyo is department stores. Quite bizarre really! Downside to this was that we had to carry the nappies all day. Thank goodness for pram storage.

Once we got to Asakusa we headed to Hoppy Street which has little restaurants with outdoor seating where you can get pub style Japanese food. Gracie had another carb meal of noodles.

We then strolled along the streets where we saw a range of sights including owls, harajuku girls, locals feeding their Japanese dogs ice cream and geishas.

We finally made our way to the main gate, Kaminari Gate. However it was all covered up as it is getting restored for the Olympics. From the gate you walk up Nakamise street which is essentially a shopping street with lots of vendors selling food, souvenirs and handmade crafts. Gracie was very popular again getting lots of love. One elderly Japanese man even stopped us to take about a dozen pictures of Gracie. So cute!! Now I wish I had taken a picture of him!

At the end of the street is Sensoji Buddhist Temple built in the 7th century and one of Tokyos most popular temples. The buzz of the people makes the temple feel quite alive.

At the temple we got our fortune. Mine was a good fortune. Glenn’s was a bad one (even though it was the fortune for number 88). When your fortune is bad you tie it onto these posts so it doesn’t come true.

After the temple we headed back to the hotel for a rest. We tried to visit a nearby park this afternoon but it was closed by the time we got there. However, we were lucky to get an hour to have dinner without a cranky baby using last nights routine. Go Gracie!

Tomorrow we leave for Kanazawa.

Nikko

Today we ventured out of Tokyo on a day trip to Nikko. Nikko celebrates the extravagance of the Edo Period dating back to the 1600’s and is filled with temples all set in a national park.

Nikko is about 2 hours north of Tokyo by express and local trains. We headed out early to catch the bullet train to our first stop. From here we changed to a local train which was filled with tourists. Gracie was pretty good on the bullet train as she slept in her carrier ie me standing at the end of the carriage. On the local train she was very restless. I don’t blame her! As a side note, I must say that the toilets on the trains are immaculate and clean. The only thing that’s a bit too much is that they have a heated toilet seat.

When we got to Nikko we made our way through the town to the main temple.

On the way you pass Shinkyo Bridge a gorgeous red bridge flowing over crystal clear water and green mountains in the background. The bridge was built in 1636 and until 1973 was off limits to the general public. You can now walk over it if you buy a fortune.

We then headed up to the main temple, Toshogu Shrine. It was a bit of an effort to get to with a pram. We had to push Gracie up a steep hill and then the complex is a series of steps and soft rocky earth. We were lucky a guard could mind our pram while we explored. Notwithstanding, it was worth the hike as Toshogu Shrine is a lavishly decorated shrine and mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu who ruled Japan in the early 1600’s.

This shrine is also famous for a series of paintings depicting the three monkeys that “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil”. It is kind of poignant this temple has the three monkeys as Gracie was born in the year of the monkey.

After the temple we headed back towards the station to grab some lunch. Most Japanese restaurants are small and the tables tightly packed. A challenge for a family with a pram. They also don’t normally have high chairs. We were lucky to find a place where we could sit on the floor and put the pram next to us. Another win as we wanted to have this dining experience. The room was empty when we arrived until a group of about 6 hipster Japanese guys arrived who were smitten with Gracie. Gotta love this country!

On the way to the train station we were lucky to see some wild deer grazing in someone’s yard!

Back to Tokyo by train and a rest at our hotel. We decided to do something different tonight with Gracie and feed, bathe and bottle her first. And then put her in the pram asleep so we could (hopefully) get a meal in peace. And, it worked!!! We got about an hour to eat our “cook your own” seafood meal, have a few beers and watch the drunk Japanese business people stumble down the streets.

I was even treated to some alone mummy time to have a few wines at the hotel and blog. Awwww bliss……

We Made It (With Our Sanity)

We made it to Tokyo and with our sanity in check! Why? Because travelling on a long haul international flight with child was nothing like I expected.

That was the major problem with our flight. I had some expectation of what it was going to be like. And it was probably more positive an expectation than what it was. That is, the magazines we bought at the airport went unread, the trashy tv shows I downloaded remain unwatched and the music I subscribed to was not heard. Whilst the flight definitely felt like the full 9.5 hours, Gracie was relatively good on the whole.

We got to the airport from our hotel within 10mins and had another splurge with airport parking for our travels. The international airport was actually on par with price as the Blue Emu parking and we didn’t have to muck around with the shuttle bus.

The check in and immigration process was amazing and quick. All thanks to baby Gracie. Sorry to all the parents out there but I’m going to share your secret. Once you travel with a baby you get fast tracked on all the queues. We even got to board the flight first. And I mean first – before platnium, first class and business class. I knew we would get some preferential treatment but didn’t know it was going to be this good!!

The flight itself was nice and smooth with relatively no turbulence (a win for me). Gracie was mostly good on the flight. Her ears where ok except for about 1 minute as we started our descent into Tokyo. The big issue is that our child hates to nap so we only got 2 naps for the entire 9.5 hour flight – one 45 min nap in her carrier about 3 hours in which meant I had to stand. The only upside was the air hostess showed me butterfly island as we flew past as I was standing and one of the few people not asleep.

The second nap was 10 mins before we landed in Glenn’s lap. The rest of the time was about keeping her amused. Sigh. It was a long flight.

We caught the express train from the airport to Tokyo station and then a taxi to our hotel. This is one of the few taxis we plan on using all holiday.

Our hotel, The Park Hotel Shiodome, is in a business district. We picked it as we could get a bigger room and more hotel facilities.

View from our room

Tokyo Tower

The staff were amazebombs and even had Gracie’s cot set up with a little mini doona and pillow. So cutes!! She loved it and slept a full 8 hours in it. Another win for mum and dad!

My first impression of Japan is that the people are amazing. They are considerate and polite and so well mannered. And omg they love babies. Gracie had a legion of admirers on arrival day. I can only imagine what its going to be like for the rest of the trip!

Kon’nichiwa

Kon’nichiwa!

Welcome to my newest travel blog, Erika Does Japan. This weekend I head to Tokyo to explore Japan. In tow will be my hubby, Glenn, and our 9.5 month old baby, Gracie.

We will start and end our journey in Tokyo. In between, we will visit Kyoto, Kanazawa and Shinzansou. Throughout will be a handful of daytrips including Hiroshima and Nikko.

This will be my second time to Japan. I visited Tokyo in 2007 with my sister when I tagged along on her work trip. It is super exciting to revisit Tokyo and finally get an opportunity to explore further afield.

What really excites me about Japan is that it is a country of contradiction. On the one hand you have a country that is all about the latest trends, fads, technology, neon lights. But on the other hand it is a country that fosters culture, traditions and customs of a bygone era. So I am a little excited to have a holiday where I get the thrill of a big city with awesome shopping but can then stroll through a peaceful temple or garden to get my zen!

Below are some photos from my trip in 2007 which shows this contradiction.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

This blog will also share my experiences travelling with a baby. This is my first international holiday and plane trip with a baby. The plane trip is not something I look forward to (even without baby as I am a bad flyer). However, I am looking forward to sharing my love of travel with my little girl. I have always been a believer that “real” travel (ie not 5 star travel) is a better education than any expensive private school. Or maybe I just say that as I can’t afford to do both!

Miss Gracie, fingers crossed she’s good!

Thanks for joining us on our Japanese travels!